Parker Fly Modification

NOTE: THESE OPERATIONS ARE PERFORMED AT YOUR OWN RISK. DO NOT perform this operation if you are not 100% sure of what you are doing. I do not take any responsibilities for any damage caused.

My Parker guitar is a Parker Fly Classic from circa 1997. Parker might have changed the wiring, so if your Parker looks different, DO NOT PERFORM THIS OPERATION unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing.

This is how I rewired my Parker Fly with a bunch of new switching options:

I added a new switch to coil tap both humbuckers. The reason I did this was because I wanted to be able to use the two full humbuckers together and still have the possibility to use the two-single-coil-“Strat/Tele” in-between combination.

The old switching scheme was like this:

P.U. switch position:
1: Full neck humbucker
2: Neck and bridge single coils together
3: Full bridge humbucker

These are the combinations I am now able to get:

New switch off:

P.U. switch position:
1: Full neck humbucker
2: Both full humbuckers
3: Full bridge humbucker

New switch on:

P.U. switch position:
1: Neck single coil (closest to the neck)
2: Neck and bridge single coils together
3: Bridge single coil (closest to the bridge)

Start by removing the back plate from the guitar. Unscrew the circuit board:

parker_with_back_plate_off

Note where the wires from the pickups enter the control cavity.

parker_wiring

As you can see on the above picture, the pickup switch has two functions. The top half is the pickup switching part and the bottom half takes care of the coil tapping in the centre position.

Number the pins like this:
1 – 2 – 3
4 – 5 – 6
7 – 8 – 9
10 -11 -12

You can see that the red and green wire from the neck pickup are both connected to pin 7. The black and white wires from the bridge pickup are connected to pin 12 in a similar fashion. These are the coil tap wires.

You can avoid the centre position coil tapping by just unsoldering these two wire pairs from the switch. The green and red wire from the neck pickup must still be connected TO EACH OTHER and NOTHING ELSE, and the same goes for the black and white wires from the bridge pickup.

If you want to add a switch to coil tap the pickups, take a look at this schematic:

Parker_wiring_schematic

The pins 8, 9, 10 and 11 are connected from the factory and functions as a connection to ground. This we can use as a common connection point for the coil tap wires.

As you can see, the red and green wires from the neck pickup are both connected to the new switch. The same goes for the black and white wires from the bridge pickup. The new switch is then connected to ground (the blue wire). Note that the blue wire is connected to TWO pins on the new switch.

Also note that if you add a switch, like I did, you will need to drill a hole in your guitar (unless you can find a DPDT pull-pot to replace one of the existing pots with). It is very hard to drill a hole in the guitar without cracking the laquer on the front, so take good care.

Enjoy your new Parker sounds!

14 Responses to Parker Fly Modification

  • Kim Olesen says:

    Hej Mark. Er det muligt kun at coilsplitte neck pickuppen på en fly deluxe?
    Dvs så pickupvælgeren giver neck singlecoil i neck position. Neck og bridge singlecoil i mid. Humbucker i bridge.

    • admin says:

      Hi Kim, I hope you don’t mind that I answer in English. I do speak Danish but I like to keep my site English because I have a lot of English speaking followers that might have a use for this as well.

      You asked if a Fly Deluxe can be wired to allow for the following pickup combinations: Neck single coil, Neck and bridge single coils and Bridge humbucker.

      This is possible. With a twist. If your Fly Deluxe is wired the same as my Fly Classic, the simple solution is to connect pin 11 and 12 on the pickup switch. This will give you stock wiring except the neck pickup is split so it is always single coil. However, the coil that is active is the one closest to the bridge pickup, referred to by others as the “inside coil”. This is because that pickup coil is the one used for the neck-bridge combination. This might be perfectly fine for you, and in that case, all is dandy. However, the way I wired mine, I actually use the outside coils of both the bridge and neck pickups. So if you want to use the outside coil of the neck pickup, you will need to swap the black and the white wires coming from the neck pickup. These will stock be connected to pin 6 and 10 on the switch. However, this has the “drawback” that both switch position 1 and 2 will use the outside coil of the neck pickup. Now, this could also be fine for you, and everything is dandy.

      I don’t think it is possible with the stock switch to wire it so the switch positions are Neck outside, Neck inside + bridge inside, Bridge humbucker. At least I cannot wrap my head around how to do it. If somebody else has an idea, please comment here!

      • Kim Olesen says:

        Thanks 🙂
        How do you like the sound of the split coil neck?

        English is pefectly fine btw 🙂

        • admin says:

          I like it. It sounds like the full humbucker but somewhat thinner, with some Strat flavor added. I do have a thing for singlecoils, so this is right up my alley. This is the outside coil, btw. I don’t remember how the inside coil sounds. I haven’t used it in years. But I would guess that it has a little more Telecaster-like sound.

      • Kim Olesen says:

        Hi. Just tried connecting 11 and 12. It did coil split but it was the Bridge pickup that got split.

        • admin says:

          It could be that your Fly is wired a little bit different than mine. If it is wired the opposite of mine on the coil tap side of the switch, you simply connect pins 7 and 8 instead.

    • admin says:

      In short: I don’t. In my Parker, I just left them as they are. I only soldered the “normal” wires coming from the pickups. But of course you should take care not to damage the flat cables while soldering the pickup wires.

  • admin says:

    Hi Paul,

    I prefer to keep things simple, and the reason why I chose to have just one coil tapping switch is that it gave me the pickup options I needed. I simply do not need the extra combinations of pickups (neck single coil together with bridge humbucker, for example).

  • Paul Marossy says:

    Never mind, I see what you did. I am thinking of doing something similar but without totally rewiring the pickup selector switch, just adding a switch (which would give me the scenarios I listed earlier).

  • Paul Marossy says:

    I just wondering how you get a DPDT switch to do those three combinations. If you use an on-on-on type DPDT you would have the three combinations you list but you can never turn it off completely. If you had an on-off-on type DPDT you could get both single coils-off-one single coil. Am I missing something?

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